In the heart of Mexico City’s San Rafael neighborhood stands a culinary gem that defies convention. It’s not a fancy bistro with linen-draped tables or a high-end fusion joint boasting avant-garde creations. No, it’s something much more humble, yet equally extraordinary: Tacos El Califa de León, the first Mexican taco stand ever to earn a coveted Michelin star.
Leading this culinary institution, founded by Juan Hernández González, and now owned by his son, Mario Hernández, is Arturo Rivera Martínez, a new Michelin-starred chef who has been tirelessly perfecting the art of searing meat for two decades. On any given day, you’ll find him standing over a scorching grill, surrounded by his loyal customers.
Despite the prestigious accolade bestowed upon him by Michelin representatives, Rivera Martínez remains rooted in tradition, as informed by AP. He refuses to don the heavy, full-sleeved, pristine white chef’s jacket, recognizing that the heat makes the magic happen in this compact 10-foot by 10-foot space.
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According to the publication, the El Califa de León menu is refreshingly simple, featuring only four items: tacos crafted from various cuts of beef sourced from the finest parts of the cow. Rivera Martínez attributes the success of their tacos to two key elements: the meat’s quality and the recipe’s simplicity. Each taco is adorned with just a tortilla and a choice of red or green sauce, allowing the meat’s natural flavors to take center stage.
What sets El Califa de León apart from its Michelin-starred peers is not just its humble surroundings but also its commitment to consistency. Since its inception in 1968, this tiny taco stand has remained steadfast in its dedication to doing things the same way—grilling meat over an open flame, rolling out tortillas by hand, and serving up simple yet unforgettable tacos.
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