Norma Kamali inspired by masculine energy and Bob Dylan for her latest collection

Masculine energy is very powerful right now, especially, I would say, for girls and women from their mid-20s to mid-40s. Masculine energy is essential, "I got this. I don't need a man to make it happen for me. I have this under control. And when I want to be with a man, it will be because I have this." And masculine energy is truly very prevalent right now, especially among men. 

Our government has a lot of masculine energy, and even the women in the government have lots of masculine energy. But it's not only that. It's been part of what's been happening with young women. It's an incredible time because it means that we no longer feel like victims, don't have the same chance, or that things are different for us. We are actually doing better and better, and the attitude has changed, right? So if all these young women have that attitude, it's half the battle

Well, it's more the attitude of the look. So, I think the clothes have a very tough, energetic feel about them. I also mix them with very feminine pieces. So, they have a tough masculine and then very feminine feel at the same time. And actually, that contradiction is really compatible in the end; it looks quite good. It feels right when you're wearing it. The energy is there, but the feminine part of us is being satisfied simultaneously...

The first, obviously, was the masculine energy. At the same time, I had been thinking about prints from years ago, in the '70s from my sleeping bag coat. It was a tree print, a forest with beautiful trees. I developed that print again with more and more detail, using 3D printing to create a look of the forest with depth, color, and richness.

We had been working on all these samples when the horrific fires broke out in California. My initial reaction to the forest was a deep sense of its spirituality, vastness, and powerful silence. Being in the midst of it, where the quiet envelops you, you realize how small and unimportant you are within the scope of the energy of nature. Watching it burn uncontrollably was profoundly unsettling and uncomfortable. Yet, reflecting on this, I felt a sense of purpose in my work—it was a tribute to nature. This print has become one of my favorites, and despite the unfortunate circumstances, I am grateful that we have it now.

The third influence is Bob Dylan. While Dylan and I are pretty close in age, we are from different generations. I wasn't a fan when Dylan was making his major breakthroughs. However, attending some of his concerts, I was overwhelmed by the brilliance and genius of his words and music. He not only has a gift with words but also understood that wearing makeup or dressing a certain way could create another connection, another message to the audience. He wore hats, and having had a license with Stetson for many years, where I wore and sold hats, it seemed timely to reintroduce them. When you see someone wearing a hat that's not just trendy but truly cool, you start to wonder, "What's that person's story? Why did they choose that?"

We want to know people's stories, so I use the hat extensively in the collection. Dylan's music also plays a role in the presentation of the collection. Everything came together beautifully. The hat and the masculine energy made a great connection.

I believe masculine energy, as I’ve portrayed it, has a toughness about it, but it’s a classic, timeless toughness. I have an exaggerated motorcycle jacket that comes to the knee, which is super elegant. Pair that with a fedora, a black jacket, and a slim pant, and there’s something really sleek and elegant about that combination. So, there is an elegance in the shape and in the textures, but it’s the timelessness and the classic quality that really stands out. Just like trees are timeless and classic, Dylan obviously represents this timeless, beyond-time listening classic.

Yes, first and foremost, everything in the collection is washable. That is incredibly important because we are always thinking about sustainability. In this industry, it’s challenging to find all the fabrics you would like that fall into the sustainable classification. If you’re a new designer and can’t afford to make special fabrics that are in the sustainability category, it isn’t easy.  

Everyone can create a collection that’s washable. Once you avoid using dry cleaning chemicals, you’re protecting your health, but you’re also avoiding the ongoing costs. It’s like having a pet that you keep feeding because you want to keep the pet alive, but having a piece of clothing that you have to keep investing in is crazy. Everything can be washable.

You know, it's very interesting. I've been doing this for 57 years and I can't even recall what it's like not to be doing a collection. Every cell in my body is geared toward creating another collection. It's just like breathing for me; it's just what I do. I don’t think, “Oh my God, will I be able to come up with something better?” 

I'm just focused on the next thing, and I don't know if it will be better or not. I don’t think anybody puts a collection together thinking, “This is going to be the best collection I've ever done.” You only find that out later. You may think so while you're doing it, and it can turn out to be horrible. Or you might think it’s not great, and it turns out to be the best thing you ever did. I just surrender to the process and do it.