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"Salir de la zona de confort" se ha utilizado tanto que parece ya desprovisto de la fuerza impulsora que tuvo en algún momento... hasta que llega Matthew M. Williams, director creativo de Givenchy, y demuestra con su colección de Primavera/verano 2022 -presentada en Paris Fashion Week- lo que significaba esa expresión. El propio diseñador reconoce que esta línea le ha supuesto todo un reto debido a su colaboración con el artista Josh Smith, cuyo trabajo se define por el colorido, mientras que Williams prefiere la neutralidad cromática. Sin embargo, ambos creadores han llegado a un punto medio tan sorprendente como misterioso: entre los motivos que Smith ha ideado para esta colección, un estampado de la Muerte ponía la nota -todavía más- oscura a un desfile que empezaba con los looks negros sello de la casa.
Pero no todo iba a ser sombrío en esta propuesta, y realmente los tonos claros, del blanco al lila, tienen también una notable presencia. De hecho, son los que marcan los looks más especiales, aquellos que parecen poner la mirada en la próxima colección de Alta Costura que Williams presentará en febrero, la primera que diseña para la casa francesa. Corsés superpuestos a tops con volante peplum, plisados que no caen ligeros sino que dotan de volumen a faldas y vestidos, o chaquetas formales sobre piezas fluidas sintetizan este contraste entre opuestos -como prêt-à-porter vs. costura, pero también día y noche, luz y oscuridad- que no queda fuera de la zona de confort... pero siempre es un acierto.
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